OLGA'S CUP AND SAUCER,

That comforting aphorism -- "The more things change, the more they stay the same" -- is certainly true for Olga's Cup and Saucer. From its humble beginnings as a neighborhood bakery/cafe in Little Compton (1988) to its garden corner in Providence's Jewelry District (1997), Olga's has never wavered from its determination to produce good quality bread, using stone-ground flours and "natural leavenings," i.e., sourdough starters and their cousins. Olga's breads are almost a sensory overload, because their textures and tastes ring changes on so many long-forgotten culinary memories. Tearing ourselves away from lusting after the breads (rosemary, olive and roasted garlic boules are no slouches, either), we set to the task at hand: lunch, when soups, sandwiches, and salads change daily; entrees are made to order from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. You select and pay for your order at the counter before receiving a numbered wooden triangle to take to your table. The day we were there, this system worked fine, but friends have complained of long-waits and glitches, which can especially frustrating if you've left a busy office to grab some sustenance.

Full review.